My Process of Unsettlement

Hello again,

I have been alluding to this topic for quite some time now, but wasn't quite sure how to go about discussing it. Ever since I set foot in this country, I haven't been able to get it out of my mind. Perhaps the reason I haven't been able to turn my thoughts into words is because of the amount of processing needed to make sense of any of it...

I had an enlightening moment the other week. Not necessarily one that sheds light on these thoughts exactly, but it certainly made me feel a bit better. But before I go into that let me back up a bit...

When I first arrived, I mentioned how everything I saw was incredibly overwhelming. How, driving from the airport to our orientation campsite, we past many informal settlements that were filled to overflowing with shacks, while beautiful mansions stood in neighbouring communities. Though it's been over 1.5 months since I've been here, going from big cities to townships and back again gives me a shock each and every time...

It's strange really. Going from Khayelitsha to Cape Town city is like going from one country to another...from the third world to the first. And the majority of those in the city centre are white...or middle class blacks/coloureds. I have yet to see a white person that lives in a township, or who isn't in the middle class. And those taxis that I mentioned before...the ones I have grown rather fond of...you would never see a white person in one of those either. Such ways of living (townships, beat up taxis, side market stalls, labour jobs) are reserved for the blacks and coloureds.

I cannot fathom how people are able to live in these five story mansions situated on the most beautiful of beaches (check out Sea Point/Camps Bay area) and not feel just a little sick on the inside. Maybe I'm being too harsh, but in my very ignorant opinion, it's not right. Not only that, almost all of these wealthy still have 'domestic workers'...or what I would call servants. And they, of course, are all black. 

What bothered me most though was the complacency that I find in most everyone I meet here. Black, coloured, white...it doesn't matter, I don't see people disturbed by any of this. It's as though everyone is thinking 'Things are the way they are...what am I to do about any of it?' Don't get me wrong. There are countless organizations with people working for them, who have dedicated their lives to reversing the damages of oppression and class segregation....but if the people themselves don't move themselves to take the first step, then is anything really going to change? I am a pessimist through and through. And living here has shaken me to the core...honestly, alot of the time, I feel as though South Africa is a lost cause.

I would have to be completely ignorant if I were to go on about how unjust were in South Africa, without acknowledging the root causes. It took years of systematic work to bring apartheid to the country...but it will take countless more to reverse it. The country is founded so solidly in this segregation...it wouldn't run at all if things were overturned in one day. I met a guy last week, which is where my enlightening begins, who was able to dialogue with me about these very things. Not only was he a white South African, he was also incredibly informed about the history of his country and the measures that are being taken now to move past that history.

What was interesting to me was to hear from the other side. For weeks now I have been inundated with the black perspective...I didn't stop to think that there was another side. He agreed that the state of things is unjust, and doesn't deny the fact that 'white'=wealth and 'black'=poverty. But the apartheid wasn't something wanted by majority, and it was thanks to a collective stand from all kinds of people that it came to an end. He explained how as whites are in this economically advantaged position, their taxes must provide for the rest of the country. However, they don't have the advantage in numbers, so they don't have a say in how those taxes are used. And it is a well accepted fact that there will only ever be a black leader in this country from now on. He explained that the ANC (African National Congress), are voted in again and again, because of the work that they did under Mandela. However, things have only gone downhill since that time. Education is failing, health care is a joke, and the numbers of those living in informal settlements is on the rise. The ANC is very good at talking, making a lot of promises, and reminding the people of the times of old. However they don't follow up with any of those promises. Still the majority votes for them. And they will continue to vote for them regardless of if another party would serve the country better...



There's actually an election next week. And in talking with the South African girls about who they were voting for and why, what was told to me was verified. Without a moment's hesitation, the girls told me they were voting for the ANC. Why? Because 1) it's in the family 2) Nelson Mandela 3) they will always be loyal to them 4) the other parties don't support blacks (?). When I asked them who the provincial representative was for the ANC, however, they couldn't reply. It's completely beyond me...makes me a little sick actually. 


To me it sounds as though, because of the people's pride (not to mention a lot of hurt), the country will never get out of this mess. They would rather stay loyal to the ANC then let a white person in power. This guy went on to say that though he believes there should be redistribution of wealth and that a majority need support to move forward, change will only come when the people themselves decide to do something about it. Perhaps a government is only as corrupt as the people allow it to be. He isn't allowed to voice his complaints, however, because they are 'elitist concerns' (his words not mine). But then who's to say one's suffering is greater than another's?

I did feel a little sorry for him in the end. Though he is benefiting from white privilege, it seems his life is a rather suffocating one.  First, though he contributes financially to his country, he has very little say in how it is run. Secondly, he is incredibly educated and aware of the state of his country...but, being white, does not have much power to do something about it. Last, and worse of all, is as he has a South African passport, his options are few when it comes to working/living abroad. To be so aware of how dismal your country is, and to see little hope of change, yet not have the freedom to go somewhere else and make a better life for yourself...I couldn't handle that. Thinking about that...I would rather be uneducated, have little privilege, and not be aware of a different way of living. You don't really know what you're missing in that case...do you? It's probably not right of me to say, but that's what I feel....

Anyways. I should draw this to a close. But not without a song, of course. Here is my current favorite instrumentalist group (by current I mean for over a year): Balmorhea. I was supposed to see them live last year, but they had to cancel. I was absolutely heartbroken. However! They have just released another cd and are off on a west coast tour. I have to trek to Seattle to see them, but I can't think of a better reason to head south than this. I guess this will be part of my re-integration process...

I hope you enjoy this as much as I do. 
Only three weeks left....

One More Thing...

I realized I never posted a song for the last blog. So here it is. It's not a South Africa artist, but she's from the same continent...close enough...

Saw a music video for this song a few weeks back and fell in love.




Just for kicks, I'm also going to post that ridiculously annoying song that plays at least once every hour in every shabeen (bar), store, and taxi in Khayelitsha. Maybe it wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't played so friggin' much.... But at least now you all have a taste of South African 'black' house music.

Enjoy?